Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A satisfying, almost no-sew pattern!

I absolutely love how this adorable donut teddy bear turned out, but I’m mostly proud that its construction is so clever and unique.

When I was developing this pattern, my goal was to make it as painless as possible. I know a lot of amigurumists out there struggle with sewing, especially on curved surfaces.

For this project, I used a variety of no-sew techniques that I’ve implemented on various other projects like working through the back loop (or front loop) only, which means that the ears and frosting pieces are worked directly onto the donut itself as you make it, not worked separately and attached at the end.

All this means that this project is incredibly satisfying to work up since you don’t have a million pieces flying around as you go, and you’ll be able to learn some clever new techniques to upgrade your skills.

This does mean that this pattern is slightly more advanced, since sewing is often the lowest common denominator to attaching pieces together. You’ll need to know (or learn very quickly) how to work in the FLO, BLO, pick up stitches, and work around protruding pieces.

All in all, I loved how this adorable munchkin of a project turned out, and I’m also very satisfied with the “dipped-in-frosting” look of the bottom. So cute!!!

Now Meet Teddy’s Cousin: Frosty Donut Polar Bear!!!

I fell in love with this charming variation of the donut pattern. Instead of using white felt, I opted for slightly larger safety eyes and a nose for my delightful polar bear creation. In my opinion, this little tweak added a delightful touch and brought out sweet qualities of this unique and lovely project.

Here is one way it can be used. Isn’t that pretty?

Tips for making this pattern!

The donut base of this pattern is very similar to my full sized donut pattern, linked below. The larger donut is a good place to get started if you’re not comfortable with making mini amigurumi. This Donut Teddy pattern is about 2″ x 2″, so the work is fairly small and you’ll need to be familiar with the process of making amigurumi to be successful.

The main reason why this project is more difficult when scaled down is because at the end, you’ll need to seam the inner edges shut to form the inside circle of the donut. This isn’t a big deal when the donut is 6″ in diameter, but it can be tricky to both seam and stuff at the same time when the donut is a lot smaller.

Apart from that, this pattern also requires familiarity with the double crochet and treble crochet, which you’ll be working into the FLO and BLO at various points to create the ears and the frosting detail. Click here for more tips on working the treble crochet into the FLO!

I’ve also made a full video tutorial below which you can follow along with if you’re a beginner!

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This adorable Donut Teddy amigurumi project is simply adorable and whimsical. It uses clever no-sew techniques to form the ears and frosting, so you only have to do a minimal amount of seaming at the end. This miniature sized amigurumi is a perfect keychain or bag charm!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Hobbii Amigo (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Dark Beige (light brown)
  • (<1 skein) Light Pink
  • (scrap) Sky Blue, Dusty Green, and Sunflower (yellow)

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• black embroidery thread
• pink embroidery thread
• scrap white felt
• (optional) tacky glue or hot glue
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi. Read this post here for more tips on stuffing!
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

2. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them. Click here for a photo tutorial on how to sew amigurumi.

Special Stitches

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial

Final Size

2″ x 2″

DONUT (in brown. See Special Stitches for Foundation Single Crochet (FSC), as well as *…* abbreviation.)

• Rnd 1: FSC 12, sl st to first st to join (12 sts)
• Rnd 2: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 3: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 4: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Rnd 5: 2 sc, (4 sc, inc) x5, 2 sc, inc (36 sts)
• Rnd 6: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Rnd 7: Sc around (42 sts)
• Rnd 8: 26 sc, then work the remaining 16 sc in the BLO (see fig. 1) (42 sts)
• Rnd 9: Begin by working 6 sc. Next, start working on the ear below.
• Ear: Working in the FLO, work *dc, tr* in the same st. In the next st, work *2 tr* in the same st. In the next st, work *tr, dc* in the same st.
  • Resume working through both the front and back loops. Work 7 scs. Work a second ear in the same method as before. Your work should look like fig. 2.
  • Resume working the both the front and back loops. Work 23 remaining scs. After finishing this round, there should be unworked back loops behind the two ears (see fig. 3).
• Rnd 10: Sc around. When you reach the ears, work into the back loops left unworked from the previous rnd. After working into the unworked back loops of the ears, insert the hook into both loops of the first st after the ear to continue in the rnd (see fig. 4). (42 sts)
• Insert two 4.0mm safety eyes between rnds 5-6, in the center of the ears with 5 sts between the two eyes.
• Rnd 11: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Rnd 12: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Rnd 13: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 15: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a long tail of around 24″ (60 cm) for sewing. Using the tail, whip stitch the donut closed in the center (fig. 5). After you’ve finished whip stitching 1/3 of the donut, begin stuffing and continue stuffing as you go until completely finished. Finish off and weave in the end.

FROSTING (in pink)

• We will now work into the unworked front loops from rnd 8. With the hook pointing towards the front of the donut, attach pink yarn to the right most unworked stitch.
• In the first stitch, work hdc, dc in the same stitch. Work one tr each in the next two sts. Work dc, hdc together in the next st. Work a sc in the next st. Repeat 2 more times. Work a sl st in the remaining st. See fig. 6.
• Finish off and weave in end. Secure to the bottom of the donut by sewing or gluing. See fig. 7.
• Add sprinkles to the pink frosting by sewing with a running stitch using blue, green, and yellow yarn.

NOSE

Cut a white piece of felt into an oval 1/2″ wide and 1/4″ tall. Using black embroidery thread, embroider a triangular shaped nose (tutorial here). See fig. 8. Glue the felt nose in between the eyes, with the top edge of the nose aligning with the top of the eyes.

BLUSH

Using pink embroidery thread, embroider two small dashes to the left and right sides of the nose piece, directly under the eyes and extending one stitch outwards (fig. 9).

Your Donut Teddy amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Amigurumi Donut Teddy Bear – Free Crochet Pattern (low sew!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

An adorable spin on the classic avocado toast!

I recently became addicted to avocado toast (about five years late, I know) and I’ve been wanting to make some more food themed animal amigurumi, so this design was a logical next step!

I had the idea of making a fried egg as a little “blanket” for my little teddy bear, and it all came together really quickly after that.

I’ve never made a fried egg before, but using a combination of a sphere shape for the yolk plus a few rounds of half double crochets made it super easy! I even stuff the yolk slightly at the end so it has its characteristic shape.

The toast pattern itself is drawn from my Bread & Butter pattern, which I love because it’s double thick to make it extra sturdy. It’s worked back and forth with some shaping for the top, and then you’ll crochet a border to work the two sides together without any sewing (huge win!).

If this is your first time working a border, don’t worry — I’ve got a great video tutorial to help you out.

More adorable food amigurumi patterns:

• Jumbo Waffle Free Crochet Pattern
• Sushi Set Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Bubble Tea Free Crochet Pattern
• Bread with Butter Free Crochet Pattern
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Crochet Pattern

Tips for beginners making this pattern!

If you’re a beginner and want to make this pattern, it’s a great opportunity to try out some new skills! This pattern includes several advanced techniques like working around a border, embroidering a basic mouth, as well as sewing amigurumi pieces together.

Sewing can be the most challenging part of making amigurumi for most people, so if you’re just getting started I recommend reading my blog post below that breaks down my system to sewing amigurumi parts together.

If you’re new to embroidering basic features onto your amigurumi, you can check out my guide here on embroidering easy faces. I go over a basic nose, mouth, and blush features that you can mix and match to your amigurumi!

More teddy bear free patterns:

• Waffle the Chubby Bear
• Fluffle the Crochet Bear
• Bear Basket
• Teddy Pocket Shawl
• Strawbeary the Strawberry Bear
• Shirokuma the Mini Polar Bear
• Ice Cream Bear

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This adorable Toasty Teddy amigurumi project is simply adorable and whimsical. This is a great project for food and teddy bear lovers — you can even customize it by adding your own toppings!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Cream
  • (<1 skein) Brindle
    • brown
  • (<1 skein) Custard
    • yellow
  • (<1 skein) White

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• black embroidery thread
• embroidery needle
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.

2. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
3. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is Cream, CC1 is Brown, CC2 is White, and CC3 is Yellow.

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial.

• Crocheting a HDC Border: click here for tutorial.
• Foundation HDC: click here for tutorial.

Final Size

Approx. 5″ x5″

TOAST (in MC. See Special Stitches for Foundation HDC (FHDC), as well as *…* abbreviation. Work in turned rows. Make two pieces.)

• Row 1: 22 FHDC (see Special Stitches for tutorial), chain and turn (22 sts)
• Row 2-16 (15 rows): 22 hdc, chain and turn (22 sts)
• Row 17: (sc, hdc, dc, work 5 tr in the next 5 sts, dc, hdc, sc) x2 (22 sts)
• Change to CC1. Chain and work hdcs down the left side of the bread. Place 3 hdcs for every 2 rows, and place 3 hdcs in the corner. See Special Stitches for a tutorial on how to crochet an hdc border. Continue in this fashion around the other two sides (fig. 1).
• When you arrive at the right side of row 12 (green stitch marker in fig. 1), work these stitches on top of row 12: 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 2 hdc, 5 hdc, slst to the first stitch in the border (27 sts total). See Abbreviations for meaning of asterisks. Finish off and weave in the end (fig. 2). Make another identically but do not finish off.
• Place the two bread pieces wrong sides together. Insert the hook through both layers of the border and work single crochets all around, still using CC1, with both pieces held double. Slip stitch to the first stitch, finish off, and weave in end. Scroll down for photo tutorial.

EGG YOLK (in CC3.)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5-6 (2 rnds): sc around (24 sts)
• Switch to CC2 and continue to egg white without finishing off.

EGG WHITE (in CC2)

• Round 1: FLO, hdc inc x24 (48 sts)
• Round 2: 5 sc, 8 hdc, 12 sc, 14 hdc, 9 sc (48 sts)
• Round 3: 4 sc, 10 hdc, 10 sc, 15 hdc, 9 sc (48 sts)
• Round 4: 3 sc, hdc inc x6, 7 sc, 6 hdc, hdc inc x10, 6 hdc, 10 sc (64 sts)
• Round 5: hdc around, sl st to first stitch (64 sts)
• Invisible finish off (see Special Stitches), leaving a 24″ inch tail for sewing (fig. 2).

BEAR (in CC2)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6-17 (12 rnds): sc around (30 sts)
• Insert two 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8, with 7 sts in between. Using black embroidery thread, embroider a “-” shaped nose directly between the eyes. Stuff with fiberfill stuffing. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Using the tail, seam the bottom of the body closed with a running stitch (fig. 3).

EARS (in CC2, make two)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off (see Special Stitches), leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically (fig. 4). Sew the two ears onto the head between rounds 4-6 (fig. 3).

ARMS (in CC2, make two)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2-4 (3 rnds): sc around (6 sts)
• Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically (fig. 5). Set them aside to sew later.

ASSEMBLY:

• You should now have a completed bread piece, a fried egg piece, a bear body, and two bear arms.
• Place the finished egg on the toast towards the bottom. Decide how you would like to orient the egg, and then use the tail to seam it to the top of the toast with a running stitch around the outer edge of the egg. Lightly stuff the yolk of the egg with scrap yarn or fiberfill as you go.
• When you get to the place where the bear should be, insert the bear body slightly underneath the egg, and sew through the bear body and through the top layer of toast as you continue to sew down the egg. Finish sewing the egg until it is completely secure, then weave in the end.
• Sew on the two arms of the bear last, orienting them so that they overlap slightly with the top of the egg white, as if it were a “blanket.” They should be at around round 10 (counting from the top) of the body, 3 rounds below the eyes.

Your Toasty Teddy amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Toasty Teddy – Teddy Bear on Toast – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest food and bunny mashup!

I absolutely loved making my Strawbeary pattern, not in the least because it’s a great pun (please laugh), and so this is the second pattern in the series!

This Bunana is a bunny holding a banana, and I absolutely loved being able to make this tiny miniature banana.

The bunny is a classic Easter bunny and you can customize her to any color (or make a pastel rainbow), but I chose yellow so that she matches with the banana, LOL!

Tips for making this pattern!

This pattern is generally straightforward for those who have made amigurumi before, but it can be a challenge for complete beginners. Here are a few tips on the trickier parts:

• This amigurumi includes many sewing steps for small pieces. I’ve created an entire guide here on how to sew amigurumi parts together, and highly recommend referring to it throughout.
• The legs of this bunny include a technique that asks you to crochet around a foundation chain. This is a technique that I love, since it results in a slightly oval shape, but can be tricky for first timers. I have an in depth photo tutorial here that walks you through the whole process!
• If your crochet fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance. Check out this article here for tips on how to stuff correctly!

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

Bunana

Bunana is a miniature bunny holding her favorite fruit, a banana! She also wears a small cornflower blue rose next to her ear. Her best friend is Strawbeary and they love to match! This is a beginner level pattern with a few extra accessories that can be a little tricky because of their size.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)

• (<1 skein) Custard
  • yellow
• (<1 skein) Canary
  • orange
• (<1 skein) Cream
• (<1 skein) Sky
  • light blue

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• brown embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.
5. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them. For tips on sewing, check out my blog post here!

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is yellow, CC1 is orange, CC2 is cream, and CC3 is light blue.

Special Stitches

Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial

Final Size

Approx. 3.5″ x 2.5″

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-9 (2 rnds): sc around (42 sts)
• Round 10: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 11-12 (2 rnds): sc around (48 sts)
• Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12 (counting from top), 6 sts apart. Using 2 threads of pink embroidery thread, embroider an x directly between the two eyes, 1 round high and 1 stitch wide (fig. 1).
• Round 13: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 14: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 15: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 16: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 17: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 20: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 21: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end.

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6-10 (5 rnds): sc around (30 sts)
• Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 12: sc around (24 sts)
• Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff. Invisible finish off (video tutorial here), leaving a tail for sewing, and sew to the head.

LEG (in MC)

• Begin: Chain 4. Beginning in the 2nd chain from hook, work 6 single crochets around the foundation chain. See chart below for visual representation. For a complete tutorial on this step, click here to learn how to crochet around a foundation chain. (6 sts)
• Round 1: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 2-4 (3 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly.
• Round 5: (sc, dec) x4 (8 sts)
• Make another identically. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing, and sew between rounds 5-7 of the body (counting from the bottom), 4 stitches apart.

ARM (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Round 5: (2 sc, dec) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 6-7 (2 rnds): sc around (9 sts)
• Insert hook through both loops of both sides and sc 4 across to close the opening (4 sts)
• Make another identically. Do not stuff or stuff very lightly. Finish off, and sew to the seam between the body and head.

EAR (in MC)

• Round 1: 4 sc in MR
• Round 2: (sc, inc) x2 (6 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x3 (15 sts)
• Round 6-10 (5 rnds): sc around (15 sts)
• Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x3 (12 sts)

Squash flat and fold in half, then crochet across (fig. 6 and 7). Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically and sew to the head between rounds 3-4 (counting from the top).

BANANA (in CC1. See Abbreviations for *…*)

• Round 1: 4 sc in MR
• Round 2: (sc, inc) x2 (6 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12 sts)
• Round 5: sc around (12 sts)
• Round 6 (Banana Peel): BLO, (sc, hdc, 2 dc, hdc, sc) x3 (18 sts)
• Switch to CC2.
• Round 7: FLO of rnd 5, sc around. See fig. 8. (12 sts)
• Begin stuffing.
• Round 8-9 (2 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Round 10: (2 sc, dec) x3 (9 sts)
• Finish stuffing.
• Round 11: (sc, dec) x3 (6 sts)
• Sew to the left and right hands to secure (fig. 10). Glue can also be used.

ROSE (in CC1, worked in turned rows)

• Begin: chain 12
• Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook, (chain 2, sk1, sc in next stitch) x5. Chain and turn. (5 chain spaces)
• Row 2: chain 2, in chain space work 3 dc, chain 1, slst, slst in next chain space, chain 1, (in chain space work 3 hdc, chain 1, slst, slst in next chain space) x2, in chain space work 3 sc, chain 1, slst, slst in next chain space, in chain space work 3 sc, chain 1, slst. (5 petals)

• Starting with the sc petals, roll up the rose keeping the bottom (where you see your foundation chain) in a flat spiral, not a cone shape. Sew across the bottom to secure, then sew just under the right ear.
• If you’re having trouble visualizing this, see this video. The video is for a rose that’s about twice as big, but uses the same process.

Your Bunana is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting her and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy. Once again, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out to me with a direct message on Instagram or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com. Happy crocheting!

The post Bunana – Banana Bunny – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

An easy refreshing treat to make!

This adorable miniature watermelon slice is a perfect quick and easy project for the summertime. I love making play food because it’s always just so cute and is sure to be a huge hit with virtually anyone.

This watermelon might seem a little tricky because of its unique wedge shape, but it’s actually just made from a regular cone from a magic ring like any other project. A huge win-win!

I’ve made my watermelon in the classic red, but I can definitely see a huge array of them in pinks and yellows as party favors or keychains.

Tips for making this pattern!

This pattern is made from a magic circle for the top part, which is then shaped into a wedge shape.

The light green part of the watermelon is worked in a color change — if this is your first color change project, check out my tutorial here on changing color in amigurumi to get you on your way!

After finishing the top half of the watermelon, all that’s left is to make the rind.

This is worked back and forth to make a rectangle, with a neat border crocheted all around it. If you’ve never crocheted a border before, check out my video below — it’s super easy!

More adorable food amigurumi patterns:

• Jumbo Waffle Free Crochet Pattern
• Sushi Set Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Bubble Tea Free Crochet Pattern
• Bread with Butter Free Crochet Pattern
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Crochet Pattern

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This tiny watermelon slice works up quickly and is super cute! It fits snugly in the palm of your hand and can be customized to any other melon slice. This pattern is accessible to beginners, and you can adapt it to any size you want by changing the weight of the yarn!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Red
  • (<1 skein) Alfafa (light green)
  • (<1 skein) Hunter (dark green)

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 5.0mm safety eyes
• black embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• WS: wrong side
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial.

• Foundation Single Crochet: click here for tutorial.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is Red, CC1 is Alfafa, and CC2 is Hunter.

Final Size

Approx. 2.5″ x 2.5″ or 8 cm x 7 cm

WATERMELON SLICE (begin in MC. See Special Stitches for FSC.)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: sc around (18 sts)
• Round 5: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 6-9 (4 rnds): sc around (24 sts) Round 10 (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 11-12 (2 rnds): sc around (30 sts) Round 13 (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 14-15 (2 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
• Round 16: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Switch to CC1. Insert 4mm safety eyes between rnds 13-14 (from the top), 4 sts apart. Using black embroidery thread, embroider a “V” shape on round 14, below the eyes. Round 17-19 (3 rnds) sc around (42 sts)
• Switch to CC2.
• Round 20: sc around (42 sts)
• Shape the cone with your hands so that the opening of the cone forms a long rectangle measuring about 16 stitches across at the very bottom for the front and back, and about 5 stitches across on each of the sides. Finish off and weave in the end. Using black yarn, sew black seeds on rounds 8 and 11 (counting from the top).

RIND (in CC2. See Special Stitches for FSC. Worked in turned rows.)

• Row 1: FSC 3, chain and turn (3 sts)

• Row 2-13 (12 rows): sc across, chain and turn (3 sts)
• Border: Chain 1 and crochet to the left along the side of the rectangle, one stitch in each row for a total of 12 stitches. Place 3 single crochets in the corner and sc 3 across. Then, sc 3 in the corner and sc 12 back along the long side of the rectangle. Sc 3 in the corner and slip stitch into the first stitch of the border. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
  • Watch this tutorial for how to crochet a single crochet border!

• Stuff the watermelon slice and whip stitch the rind to the opening, roughly matching up the long sides and the short sides.
• To help you make sure you don’t over or under shoot, attach a stitch marker at each of the corners. The stitch counts of the rind and top part may not match exactly, but it’s okay.
• Stuff the watermelon further as you finish sewing.

Your watermelon is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

More like this:

• 20 Cutest FREE Crochet Baby Toy Patterns (for beginners!)
• 14 Quick and Easy Crochet Keychains for Bags (Stashbuster!)
• 12 Cutest Free Crochet Gnome Patterns (beginner friendly!)
• 9 Cutest Totoro Crochet Patterns (from Studio Ghibli!)
• 9 Fun Crochet Jellyfish Patterns!

The post Watermelon Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

More adorable food amigurumi patterns:

• Jumbo Waffle Free Crochet Pattern
• Sushi Set Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Bubble Tea Free Crochet Pattern
• Bread with Butter Free Crochet Pattern
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Crochet Pattern

A truly adorable popsicle variation!

When I made my mini popsicle pattern, I just knew that I had to make an adorable animal version as well.

My undying love of teddy bears knows no bounds, so I ended up with this insanely cute mini teddy bear popsicle! I love how chubby and cute he looks and I love that he can be friends with the popsicle as well!

This pattern uses all my favorite teddy bear techniques including a simple muzzle, cute ears, and small arms.

If you have a favorite animal pattern that you like, you can easily add those features to this popsicle base to make your own animal variants as well!

I usually like to stick to a simple formula that helps me make cute amigurumi faces — make the “head” about the same size as the body, and place the eyes in the center of the head. You can then plan the ears and nose around the eyes, and voila!

I go through a lot of these basic concepts in my blog post on how to make amigurumi cuter. So go forth and customize away!

More teddy bear free patterns:

• Waffle the Chubby Bear
• Fluffle the Crochet Bear
• Bear Basket
• Teddy Pocket Shawl
• Strawbeary the Strawberry Bear
• Shirokuma the Mini Polar Bear
• Ice Cream Bear

Tips for making this pattern!

This pattern begins with the same popsicle base as my mini popsicle pattern, but includes a few extra pieces that make up the bear head.

My biggest tip for this section is to read my blog post on how to sew amigurumi pieces together. This tutorial is amazing because by the end you’ll be able to sew together almost any amigurumi piece, which might not completely cure your sewing phobia, but should at least give you a path forward!

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This adorable bear shaped popsicle is the perfect way to welcome summer! This incredible no-sew pattern looks more complicated than it is to make — if you can make a ball, you can make this pattern! You can customize this popsicle to all your favorite colors for summer!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Sky
    • Light blue
  • (<1 skein) White

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• brown embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers
• popsicle stick cut in half
• (optional) hot glue gun

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

The MC is light blue and CC1 is white.

Special Stitches

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial

Final Size

2″ (5.5cm) x 4″ (10cm)

BODY (begin in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: sc, (3 sc, inc) x5, 2 sc, inc (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 6-17 (12 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
• Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8 (counting from the top), with 5 stitches in between. Shape the piece with your hands so that the opening forms a long rectangle measuring about 13 stitches for the long sides, and about 5 stitches for the short sides (fig. 1). Finish off and weave in the end.

Fig. 1: Main piece of popsicle done, with eyes and mouth. The bottom of the piece has been shaped into a rectangle with the side facing you measuring 13 sts across.

BOTTOM PIECE (in CC2. See Special Stitches for FSC. Worked in turned rows.)

• Row 1: FSC 9, chain and turn (9 sts)
• Row 2: 4 sc, chain and skip 1 sc, 4 sc, chain and turn (9 sts)
• Row 3: 9 sc. Do not turn your work. (9 sts)

Border: Chain 1 and crochet to the left along the side of the rectangle, one stitch in each row for a total of 3 stitches.

• Place 3 single crochets in the corner and sc 9 across the long side. Then, sc 3 in the corner and sc 3 back up the short side of the rectangle. Sc 3 in the corner and sc 9 more across the final long side.
• You should have 36 stitches total, with the long sides measuring 13 sts and the short sides 5 sts (fig. 2).

Feel free to make adjustments to ensure that you end up with 36 sts. Do not finish off.

Assembling the pieces: Match up the long sides of the bottom piece with the long side of the popsicle (fig. 3). Insert your hook through the next stitch of the bottom piece as well as the popsicle piece, and slip stitch all around. Stuff as you go, and insert the popsicle stick halfway through into the chain space in the bottom piece. If you wish, secure the popsicle stick with hot glue.

Your Bearsicle amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The post Bear Popsicle – Bearsicle – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

More adorable food amigurumi patterns:

• Jumbo Waffle Free Crochet Pattern
• Sushi Set Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Bubble Tea Free Crochet Pattern
• Bread with Butter Free Crochet Pattern
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Crochet Pattern

A super customizable mini popsicle!

Making (no-sew) mini crochet food is one of the simple joys of life, and this popsicle is absolutely guaranteed to put a smile on your face.

I made it with a simple three stripe pattern that can be customized to your holiday or your favorite colors (July 4th, anyone?) .

The popsicle shape might look hard, but it’s really just a sphere, with a rectangle crocheted onto the bottom. I love that you don’t ever have to whip out your tapestry needle on this one — I’ll be walking you through how to use a no-sew technique to “stitch” together two pieces!

If you ever need a refresh on sewing, however, be sure to check out my comprehensive guide on how to sew amigurumi pieces together!

I made a little companion pattern for this popsicle, a bear-sicle, which you can also make for a cute set! See the pattern here!

Tips for making this pattern!

This popsicle pattern is relatively straightforward, but if you’re new to changing colors in amigurumi, this can be a great pattern to practice on.

I have an awesome photo tutorial on the easiest technique that I know (and use all the time) for changing colors in amigurumi, so if you need a refresher that should be a big help.

Apart from that, the shaping of the popsicle is nothing to worry about, since you literally make it the same way you would make a ball.

I love sweet and simple patterns and this is definitely one of them!

The opening for the popsicle stick in the bottom is created by a few chains stitches and skipped stitches so that you can slip your popsicle stick through at the end.

I used a little bit of hot glue to secure it, but you can also skip that step if your amigurumi won’t be roughly handled.

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This adorable popsicle is the perfect way to welcome summer! This incredible no-sew pattern looks more complicated than it is to make — if you can make a ball, you can make this pattern! You can customize this popsicle to all your favorite colors for summer!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Hobbii Amigo (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Light Pink
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Lavender
    • Light purple

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• black embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers
• popsicle stick cut in half
• (optional) hot glue gun

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

The MC is pink, CC1 is white, and CC2 is light purple.

Special Stitches

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial

Final Size

2″ (5.5cm) x 4″ (10cm)

POPSICLE (begin in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7-8 (2 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
• Switch to CC1.
• Round 9-13 (5 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
• Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between rnds 11 and 12, with 3 stitches apart. Using black embroidery thread, embroider a “v” shaped mouth directly in between the eyes (fig. 1).
• Switch to CC2.
• Round 14-18 (5 rnds): sc around, sl st to first stitch (36 sts)
• Shape the piece with your hands so that the opening forms a long rectangle measuring about 13 stitches for the long sides, and about 5 stitches for the short sides (fig. 1). Finish off and weave in the end.

Fig. 1: Main piece of popsicle done, with eyes and mouth. The bottom of the piece has been shaped into a rectangle with the side facing you measuring 13 sts across.

BOTTOM PIECE (in CC2. See Special Stitches for FSC. Worked in turned rows.)

• Row 1: FSC 9, chain and turn (9 sts)
• Row 2: 4 sc, chain and skip 1 sc, 4 sc, chain and turn (9 sts)
• Row 3: 9 sc. Do not turn your work. (9 sts)

Border: Chain 1 and crochet to the left along the side of the rectangle, one stitch in each row for a total of 3 stitches.

• Place 3 single crochets in the corner and sc 9 across the long side. Then, sc 3 in the corner and sc 3 back up the short side of the rectangle. Sc 3 in the corner and sc 9 more across the final long side.
• You should have 36 stitches total, with the long sides measuring 13 sts and the short sides 5 sts (fig. 2).

Feel free to make adjustments to ensure that you end up with 36 sts. Do not finish off.

Assembling the pieces: Match up the long sides of the bottom piece with the long side of the popsicle (fig. 3). Insert your hook through the next stitch of the bottom piece as well as the popsicle piece, and slip stitch all around. Stuff as you go, and insert the popsicle stick halfway through into the chain space in the bottom piece. If you wish, secure the popsicle stick with hot glue.

Your starfish amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Mini Popsicle Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest food and teddy bear mashup!

Teddy bears are some of my favorite amigurumi to make because of how classic and cute they are. With this design, I wanted to incorporate an adorable food pun as well, to make this strawberry bear a “strawbeary”! (please laugh.)

I love how it turned out with the pastel pink body and mini accessories. This bear will fit in the palm of your hand and you can switch it out with other tiny foods.

I’m hoping to make this pattern the first in a series of adorable food pun animals, so please comment below if you have any ideas!

Tips for making this pattern!

This pattern is generally straightforward for those who have made amigurumi before, but it can be a challenge for complete beginners. Here are a few tips on the trickier parts:

• This amigurumi includes many sewing steps for small pieces. I’ve created an entire guide here on how to sew amigurumi parts together, and highly recommend referring to it throughout.
• The legs of this teddy bear include a technique that asks you to crochet around a foundation chain. This is a technique that I love, since it results in a slightly oval shape, but can be tricky for first timers. I have an in depth photo tutorial here that walks you through the whole process!
• If your crochet fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance.

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

Strawbeary is a miniature bear holding her favorite fruit, a strawberry! She also has a small rose to match. This is a beginner level pattern with a few extra accessories that can be a little tricky because of their size.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Cotton Candy (pink)
  • (<1 skein) Red
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Hunter (dark green)

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• brown embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

2. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is pink, CC1 is red, CC2 is white, and CC3 is green.

Special Stitches

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial
• Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial

Final Size

Approx. 3.5″ x 2.5″

HEAD (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-9 (2 rnds): sc around (42 sts)
• Round 10: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 11-12 (2 rnds): sc around (48 sts)
• Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 11 and 12 (counting from top), 6 sts apart.
• Round 13: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 14: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 15: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 16: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 17: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 19: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 20: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 21: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end.

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6-10 (5 rnds): sc around (30 sts) Round 11: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 12: sc around (24 sts)
• Round 13: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff. Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing, and sew to the head.

LEG (in MC)

• Begin: Chain 4. Beginning in the 2nd chain from hook, work 6 single crochets around the foundation chain. See chart below for visual representation. For a complete tutorial on this step, click here to learn how to crochet around a foundation chain. (6 sts)
• Round 1: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 2-4 (3 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Stuff lightly.
• Round 5: (sc, dec) x4 (8 sts)
• Make another identically. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing, and sew between rounds 5-7 of the body (counting from the bottom), 4 stitches apart.

ARM (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3-4 (2 rnds): sc around (12 sts)
• Round 5: (2 sc, dec) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 6-7 (2 rnds): sc around (9 sts)
• Insert hook through both loops of both sides and sc 4 across to close the opening (4 sts)
• Make another identically. Do not stuff or stuff very lightly. Finish off, and sew to the seam between the body and head.

EAR (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (12 sts)
• Insert hook through both loops of both sides and sc 6 across to close the opening (6 sts)
• Make another identically. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing, and sew to the head between rounds 4-7 (counting from the top). Curve the ear slightly when sewing.

MUZZLE (in CC2)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Using brown embroidery thread, embroider a nose. See Special Stitches for tutorial.
• Sew to the head between rounds 10-15 (counting from the top). The top of the muzzle should be at the level of the eyes.

STRAWBERRY (in CC1)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (sc, inc) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 3: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12 sts)
• Round 4-6 (3 rnds): sc around (12 sts) Stuff.
• Round 7: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Change to CC3.
• Working around round 7, crochet leaves.
• For each leaf: chain 3 off the side of round 7, and beginning from the second chain from the hook, work 2 single crochets. Then, slst into the next stitch. (see crochet chart below)
• Repeat all around to make 6 leaves. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Using CC2, embroider short vertical stitches over the strawberry to imitate seeds.
• Sew to the left and right hands to secure. Glue can also be used.

ROSE (in CC1, worked in turned rows)

• Begin: chain 12
• Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook, (chain 2, sk1, sc in next stitch) x5. Chain and turn. (5 chain spaces)
• Row 2: chain 2, in chain space work 3 dc, chain 1, slst, slst in next chain space, chain 1, (in chain space work 3 hdc, chain 1, slst, slst in next chain space) x2, in chain space work 3 sc, chain 1, slst, slst in next chain space, in chain space work 3 sc, chain 1, slst. (5 petals)

• Starting with the sc petals, roll up the rose keeping the bottom (where you see your foundation chain) in a flat spiral, not a cone shape. Sew across the bottom to secure, then sew just under the right ear.
• If you’re having trouble visualizing this, see this video. The video is for a rose that’s about twice as big, but uses the same process.

Your Strawbeary is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy. Once again, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out to me with a direct message on Instagram or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com. Happy crocheting!

The post Strawbeary – Strawberry Bear – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

This Pumpkin Pie is my newest fall-themed free crochet pattern!

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

Easy as pie!

This super simple pumpkin pie pattern is worked entirely in the round (even the whipped cream portion!). This means that it’s a good beginner friendly pattern for those who are comfortable with working in the round, but want to try out a different type of construction from the usual amigurumi.

The crust is made with a round of shell stitches, but never fear — all you need to know for this type of stitch is how to double crochet! As long as you can do that, then you’ll be able to make this fancy looking shell stitch border (which was secretly really easy).

Tips for success with this pattern!

This pattern is relatively straight forward, but there are few things that you should pay attention to.

The first thing is the sizing for the top and bottom of the pie. Since this pattern depends on the top matching up with the bottom crust, it’s important that they match up. Depending on if you’re using different yarn from me, you might end up with a top that’s a little bigger or smaller than it needs to be. If that’s the case, don’t worry! You can just add a few extra rounds or frog back until it fits. All the round increase by 8 each time, so it should be pretty straightforward.

The second thing to pay attention to are the staggered increases in the pie filling piece. This is a technique used to make sure that your amigurumi piece has fewer corners and that it looks more circular and less angular. It’s common for amigurumi pieces without staggered increases to look hexagonal or octagonal, but using this method eliminates the edges.

This means that the pattern for the pie filling might look a little strange to you if you haven’t encountered this technique before, but trust me, it’s correct. If it’s too overwhelming you can just crochet them as usual without the staggered increases, but trust me it’s so worth it!

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This pumpkin pie amigurumi is topped with a swirl of whipped cream and is cute enough to eat! It’s super simple to make, with just three pieces total. You can make this in different colors for different pie fillings or keep it classic as a pumpkin pie!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Wonderfluff (bulky, but reads more as worsted)
  • (<1 skein) Beehive Heather (burnt orange)
• Hobbii Amigo (sport weight)
  • (<1 skein) Golden Brown
  • (<1 skein) White

Notions

• Size C 2.5mm Clover Amour hook
• 4.0mm safety eyes
• black embroidery thread
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

For this pattern, MC is golden brown, CC1 is burnt orange, and CC2 is white.

Special Stitches

• Shell stitch: Skip the next two stitches, and double crochet into the third stitch. Work four more double crochets into the same stitch, for a total of five double crochet stitches. Skip two stitches and slip stitch into the third stitch. Repeat.
• See here for a tutorial — we’re doing the 5 dc shell!

Final Size

4″ x 4″

BASE (in MC)

• Round 1: 8 sc in MR (8 sts)
• Round 2: inc x8 (16 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x8 (24 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x8 (32 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x8 (48 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 8: (6 sc, inc) x8 (64 sts)
• Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 10: (8 sc, inc) x8 (80 sts)
• Round 11: (9 sc, inc) x8 (88 sts)
• Round 12-18 (7 rnds): sc all around (88 sts)
• Shell stitch (refer to Special Stitches section) all around and finish off.

FILLING (in CC1)

• Round 1: 8 sc in MR (8 sts)
• Round 2: inc x8 (16 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x8 (24 sts)
• Round 4: sc, (2 sc, inc) x7, sc, inc (32 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 6: 2 sc, (4 sc, inc) x7, 2 sc, inc (48 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x8 (56 sts)
• Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 5 and 6, 3 stitches apart.
• Round 8: 3 sc, (6 sc, inc) x7, 3 sc, inc (64 sts)
• Round 9: (7 sc, inc) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 10: 4 sc, (8 sc, inc) x7, 4 sc, inc (80 sts)
• Round 11: (9 sc, inc) x8 (88 sts)
• Invisible finish off. Stuff the pie bottom and then sew the top into the bottom, stuffing as you go until the filling is taut. Sew the edges of the filling into the seam between the last round of single crochet stitches and shell stitches (that way the stitches won’t show!).
• If the filling piece is too big or too small for the pie crust, either add a few extra rounds by increasing by 8 each time, or frog back until it fits.

WHIPPED CREAM (in CC3)

• Round 1: 4 sc in MR (4 sts)
• Round 2-26 (25 rnds): sc all around (4 sts)
• This forms a long tube. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Curl the tube and sew it in a spiral form.

ASSEMBLY

1. Insert 4.0mm safety eyes between rounds 5 and 6 of the filling, with 3 stitches in between.
2. Sew a mouth between rounds 6 and 7 of the filling, directly between the eyes. Use black embroidery thread and make a v shape with two stitches.
3. Sew the whipped cream spiral onto the filling, between rounds 1 and 7. Alternatively, use hot glue to secure.

I hope you enjoyed making this Pumpkin Pie! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The post Pumpkin Pie Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest crochet cushion ever!

This jumbo waffle pattern is the perfect solution to a couch that just needs a little more personality. My favorite part of it is the tiny butter pat that adds the cutest touch!

This pattern uses the aptly named waffle stitch (how convenient!) to create its gorgeous texture on the front and back, and is connected with a few rounds of single crochet and some seaming.

The waffle stitch is extremely thick, which makes it very suitable for blankets, but it can be more time consuming to crochet since each row is essentially worked twice.

However, since this waffle has very short rows and only a few of them, that makes it the perfect sampler for you to get some practice with the waffle stitch without committing to a larger project!

Tips for working with velvet yarn!

If you’ve never worked with jumbo velvet yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Generally, velvet yarn isn’t too big a step up from regular cotton or acrylic yarn, so it’s a good first “novelty” yarn for novices to try.

• Velvet yarn, especially jumbo velvet yarn, sheds very easily when frogged. Because velvet/chenille yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces. The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• Patterns designed for jumbo velvet yarn cannot be easily sized down to worsted weight yarn. This means that if you use worsted weight yarn for this pattern, your result may be different and it might not turn out well. For more information on this, check out my blog post on when and how to resize amigurumi!
• If your jumbo waffle fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This jumbo waffle is pillow sized and works as an adorable accent cushion for a child’s room. You can add all sorts of toppings in addition to the butter pat that I’ve added to this pattern. Using velvet makes this amigurumi even more plush, but you can make it palm sized by using sport or worsted weight yarn.

Yarn

• Chenille Home (jumbo weight)
  • (1 skein) of Mustard
• Wool-Ease Thick and Quick (super bulky)
  • (<1 skein) Fisherman
• DIYarn (worsted)
  • (<1 skein) Brown

Notions

• Size J 6.0mm Clover Amour Hook
• 10.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MR: magic ring
• sc: single crochet
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• st(s): stitch(es)
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Special Stitches

Waffle stitch: Click here for tutorial.

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is Mustard, CC1 is Fisherman, and CC2 is Brown.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to crochet around a foundation chain
• Single crochet
• How to use safety eyes
• Invisible decrease
• How to stuff amigurumi tutorial
• How to sew amigurumi parts together tutorial
• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

1.5′ x 1.5′

WAFFLE (in MC. Work in turned rows. Waffle stitch tutorial can be found in special stitches.)

• Begin: Chain 20 (20 sts)
• Row 1: Beginning from the 3rd chain from the hook (counts as a dc), dc across. Chain 2 and turn. (18 sts)
• Row 2: Dc in the first stitch. (Fpdc around the post of the next stitch. Dc in each of the next 2 stitches) x5. There should be 2 sts remaining. Fpdc, dc in last two stitches. Chain 2 and turn. (18 sts)
• Row 3: Dc in first two stitches. (Fpdc around the next two stitches, dc in the next stitch) x5. There should be 1 st remaining. Dc in the last st. Chain 2 and turn. (18 sts)
• Step 4: repeat rows 2-3 three more times (18 sts)
• Step 5: repeat row 2 (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off and weave in end. Make another identically, but do not finish off (fig.1).

Face details: On one of the waffle pieces, insert two safety eyes on the two middle fpdcs on the second row from the bottom. Using CC2, embroider a small “v” shape directly below and between the eyes (fig. 3).

Continuing from the second waffle piece, chain one and turn the work so that you’re crocheting down the left side of the square. Work scs all around the waffle to form a single crochet border.

Watch this video tutorial for visual guidance.

You should work 3 single crochet stitches for the height of every double crochet row. Work 3 single crochet stitches at each corner to form the corner. down the side, with 3 scs for each dc, with a total of around 80 sts total. Slst to the first stitch (fig. 1).

Join the two sides together either by cutting the working end of the yarn and whip stitching the two together, or crochet them together by working slip stitches between the two sides. Whichever way you prefer, stuff as you go.

BUTTER PAT (in CC1. See Special Stitches for FSC. Worked in turned rows.)

• Row 1: FSC 5, chain and turn (5 sts)
• Row 2-6: (5 rows) sc across, chain and turn (5 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Insert 10.0mm safety eyes on the 3rd row with one stitch between them. Using CC2, embroider a small “v” directly between and under the eyes (fig. 2). Using the tail, sew the butter pat to the top right corner of the waffle (fig. 3).

I hope you enjoyed making my Jumbo Waffle pattern! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The post Jumbo Waffle Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest donut ever!

Amigurumi foods are ever popular in the crochet world and donuts are one of those that seem to be particularly suited to being made in crochet form.

This donut may look complicated (especially with the ring structure), but I assure you that if you can make a ball, you can make this donut!

The entire outside of the donut is made in one piece, and then the inside is whip stitched together to form the tube. Honestly, this pattern is pretty fool proof!

One of my favorite things about this pattern is that it includes a small frosting detail around the edge, which is made through a simple BLO and FLO technique — not as hard as it looks!

Of course, you can customize this donut to whatever you like, or even leave it plain. I went with a classic glazed donut with pink frosting and rainbow sprinkles, but I can see a really fun array of donuts being made from all different colors!

My Inspiration and Design Process

I’ve been wanting to make a donut for a while and I’m so glad that I finally was able to create this pattern!

Crochet foods are so fun to me, and this donut is actually life sized, which makes it even more fun to make. The sprinkles are a really cute touch, but what I like most about this pattern is that it’s relatively quick and straightforward even when the results are anything but!

This pattern is much easier than you think, and soon you’ll be whipping up a whole dozen donuts in no time!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This cute and cuddly Donut pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! The frosting detail is the perfect extra touch, and you can customize the colors of the sprinkles and frosting to your favorite flavor of donut, or just leave it plain. This pattern is accessible to beginners, and you can adapt it to any size you want by changing the weight of the yarn!

Yarn

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (Sport)
  • (<1 skein) Cotton Candy
    • pink
  • (<1 skein) Almond
    • brown
  • (scrap) Red
  • (scrap) Canary
    • yellow
  • (scrap) Peapod
    • light green
  • (scrap) Sky
    • light blue
  • (scrap) Seraphim
    • light purple

Notions

• Size D (3.25) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 5.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• BLO: back loop only
• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• yo: yarn over
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is Cotton Candy, CC1 is Almond, CC2 is Red, CC3 is Canary, CC4 is Peapod, CC5 is Sky, and CC6 is Seraphim.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to stuff amigurumi
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

5″ x 5″

DONUT (Begin in MC. See Abbreviations for FSC.)

• Round 1: FSC 24 (24 sts)
• Round 2: slip stitch to join (counts as a stitch), sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) x7 (32 sts)
• Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 4: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x7, 2 sc (48 sts)
• Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 6: 3 sc, inc (6 sc, inc) x7, 3 sc (64 sts)
• Round 7: (7 sc, inc) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 8: 4 sc, inc (8 sc, inc) x7, 4 sc (80 sts)
• Round 9: (9 sc, inc) x8 (88 sts)
• Round 10-13: (4 rnds) sc around (88 sts)
• Round 14: working FLO, sc around (88 sts)
• Change to CC1.
• Round 15: working in the back loops of round 13, sc around, and slip stitch in the first stitch. See below for picture tutorial. Insert 5.0mm safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11 with 4 stitches between them. Using black embroidery thread, embroider a V shaped mouth on round 11 between the eyes. Cut MC. (88 sts)

• Round 16-19: (4 rnds) sc around (88)
• Round 20: (9 sc, dec) x8 (80 sts)
• Round 21: (8 sc, dec) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 22: (7 sc, dec) x8 (64 sts)
• Round 23: (6 sc, dec) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 24: (5 sc, dec) x8 (48 sts)
• Round 25: (4 sc, dec) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 26: (3 sc, dec) x8 (32 sts)
• Round 27: (2 sc, dec) x8 (24 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a long tail of around 24″ (60 cm) for sewing. Using CC2, CC3, CC4, CC5, and CC6, embroider short lines randomly all over the frosting section.

• Using the tail end of the yarn, seam the donut shut in the middle with a whip stitch, stuffing firmly as you go. Finish off and weave in the end.

I hope you enjoyed making this Donut! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

The post Amigurumi Donut Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.