Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A super simple, super sweet seal pattern!

I created this adorable seal pattern because I absolutely love simple and sleek (yet still cute!) crochet patterns.

This is a great second or third project for anyone who has mastered the basic ball-shaped amigurumi and wants to try their hand and making something with limbs and a more detailed face.

The body is started by working around a foundation chain to create an oval. You’ll build on the oval to create the oblong body, and then finish it off as usual.

The two tail flippers are created and crocheted together (I have a photo tutorial for this!) in a clever way to connect them, and then attached to the back of the body. Add the two arm flippers and you’re done!

The nose and mouth are embroidered onto a felt circle — I have a video tutorial for embroidering the nose and the rest of the mouth is done using a simple backstitch. If this is your first time creating a nose piece like this don’t worry, it’s pretty forgiving and you can give it a few shots!

I love finding the perfect balance between detailed enough to be cute, but not too complex. I think I hit it with this pattern and I hope you think so too!

Tips for working with plush yarn!

If you’ve never worked with plush chenille yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Generally, chenille yarn isn’t too big a step up from regular cotton or acrylic yarn, so it’s a good first “novelty” yarn for novices to try.

• Chenille yarn sheds very easily when frogged. Because velvet/chenille yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces. The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• Working the magic ring can be really tricky when using plush yarn. The best way to avoid breaking the yarn is to make the magic ring extremely small at first — about the size of a dime — and before you’re done working the first round, continuously tug on the tail to decrease the size of the magic ring. This will ensure that the magic ring is as small as possible so that you don’t have to pull as hard later and risk breaking the yarn. If the yarn sheds significantly so that there’s no more fluff on the center string, I would recommend restarting completely since it’s likely that it will break later on.
• If your chenille crochet fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance. For more tips on how to work with chenille, check out my post here!

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This sweet and simple Chubby Seal is so fluffy and adorable! She works up really quickly with plush yarn, but can also be made with any substitute yarn. This project is amazing as a sweet gift or for anyone who loves animals!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Baby Snuggle by Hobbii (super bulky)
  • (<1 skein) Soft Pink
• Brava Sport by WeCrochet (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Blush (pink)

Notions

• Size F 3.75mm Clover Amour hook
• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• 6.0mm safety eyes
• black embroidery thread
• embroidery needle
• White felt (at least 1″ x 1″)
• Tacky glue or hot glue
• tapestry needle
• fiberfill stuffing
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
2. Plush yarn breaks very easily, especially when making the MR. To minimize breakage, make the MR as small as possible and tug the ring closed as you work stitches into it.
3. Minimize frogging of chenille yarn as much as possible to prevent shedding.
4. It is difficult to see stitches with plush yarn. Consider using a stitch marker to keep track of the halfway point of each round.
5. This pattern is optimal for super bulky chenille yarn. If you use acrylic or cotton yarn, the proportions of the finished project may vary.

Final Size

4.5″ x 4″

BODY (in pink super bulky yarn and larger hook.)

• Begin: Chain 6 (6 sts)
• Rnd 1: Beginning from the second chain from the hook, sc 10 around the foundation chain (10 sts)
• Rnd 2: inc x10 (20 sts)
• Rnd 3: inc x2, work 8 sts, inc x2, work 8 sts (24 sts)
• Rnd 4: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Insert two 6.0mm safety eyes between rounds 2 and 3 (see fig. 2).
• Rnd 5-6 (2 rnds): sc around (30 sts)
• Rnd 7: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Rnd 8-9 (2 rnds): sc around (36 sts)
• Rnd 10: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Rnd 11: sc around (30 sts)
• Rnd 12: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Rnd 13: sc around (24 sts)
• Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Rnd 15: sc around (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Rnd 16: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Rnd 17: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in the end.

NOSE

• Cut an oval out of white felt 7/8″ long and 5/8″ tall. To create an oval of this size, measure and draw out a 7/8″ line going horizontally and then draw a 5/8″ line intersecting at the middle. This will provide the points for the top, bottom, left and right. Draw in the rest of the oval, and then cut it out. (Or, you can freehand the whole thing!)
• Draw a triangular nose in the center of the oval, as well as two wide “U” shapes (see fig. 3).
• Using black embroidery thread, embroider the triangle nose (video tutorial here), and then use a backstitch (video tutorial here) to embroider over the “U” shape.
• Glue the nose between the eyes, with the top of the oval aligning with the top of the eyes (fig. 4).

TAIL FLIPPERS (in pink super bulky yarn and larger hook, make 2)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Rnd 3: sc around (8 sts)
• Rnd 4: (2 sc, dec) x2 (6 sts)
• Rnd 5: sc around (6 sts)
• After finishing the first flipper, invisible finish off and weave in the end. Make the second flipper, but do not finish off.
• Connect the two flippers (follow the photo tutorial below): With your hook still connected to the second flipper (B), pick up a stitch on the first flipper (A). Work 6 scs all around, then work the first stitch in the round back on flipper B. Work the remaining 5 stitches all around flipper B for a total of 12 stitches all around.
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (tutorial here). Sew the flippers to the back of the body (fig. 5).

How to connect tail flippers:

ARM FLIPPERS (in pink super bulky yarn and larger hook, make 2)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Rnd 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Rnd 3-4 (2 rnds): sc around (8 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the body, between rounds 8-10 (counting from the front of the body). See fig. 5.

BLUSH (in pink sport weight yarn, with smaller hook. Make 2.)

• Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to first st in round (6 sts) Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically.
• Sew to the left and right sides of the face, at round 3-4 (counting from the front of the body). See fig. 6.

Your Chubby Seal amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Amigurumi Seal – Plush Crochet Seal – Free Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest NO-SEW crochet ghost ever!

This super sweet and cuddly crochet ghost is an amazing project for fall or to get you excited about Halloween.

It’s a great beginner pattern for anyone who wants a quick easy project to practice working ball-shaped amigurumi. Since it uses plush yarn I would say that it’s not the best project for complete beginners, but if you’re looking to get some experience with chenille yarn it’s a good place to start.

This project is completely no-sew. You’ll create a ball shaped body with a simple back loop only technique which leaves a round of horizontal bars for us to work onto later.

When you finish the body, you’ll work a shell stitch border onto the back loop only round of the body, which gives you a convenient place to attach the border onto.

If you don’t like using plush yarn, I have a pattern for a similarly shaped chubby ghost made using acrylic yarn (below!). It’s also a great project for those starting out since it’s relatively fast and super cute!

If you’re more of a visual learner, I have a video tutorial from start to finish to help get you through all the tricky parts like working the shell stitch, stuffing, embroidery the mouth, and finishing off!

Tips for working with plush yarn!

If you’ve never worked with plush chenille yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Generally, chenille yarn isn’t too big a step up from regular cotton or acrylic yarn, so it’s a good first “novelty” yarn for novices to try.

• Chenille yarn sheds very easily when frogged. Because velvet/chenille yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces. The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• Working the magic ring can be really tricky when using plush yarn. The best way to avoid breaking the yarn is to make the magic ring extremely small at first — about the size of a dime — and before you’re done working the first round, continuously tug on the tail to decrease the size of the magic ring. This will ensure that the magic ring is as small as possible so that you don’t have to pull as hard later and risk breaking the yarn. If the yarn sheds significantly so that there’s no more fluff on the center string, I would recommend restarting completely since it’s likely that it will break later on.
• If your chenille crochet fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance.

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This cute and cuddly ghost pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! It’s a no-sew pattern, so it’s great for working in chenille yarn. You can make this pattern with jumbo velvet yarn for a giant ghost or you can downsize it with super bulky yarn like I used here. This pattern is accessible to beginners because it just uses simple stitches!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Baby Snuggle by Hobbii (super bulky)
  • (<1 skein) White

Notions

• Size F 3.75mm Clover Amour hook
• 6.0mm safety eyes
• black embroidery thread
• embroidery needle
• fiberfill stuffing
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
2. Plush yarn breaks very easily, especially when making the MR. To minimize breakage, make the MR as small as possible and tug the ring closed as you work stitches into it.
3. Minimize frogging of chenille yarn as much as possible to prevent shedding.
4. It is difficult to see stitches with plush yarn. Consider using a stitch marker to keep track of the halfway point of each round.
5. This pattern is optimal for super bulky chenille yarn. If you use acrylic or cotton yarn, the proportions of the finished project may vary.

Special Stitches

• Shell stitch: skip two stitches, work a double crochet stitch into the third stitch. Work four more double crochet stitches into the same stitch for a total of five stitches. Skip the next two stitches and slip stitch into the third stitch.

Final Size

4″ x 4″

BODY (in white)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 8-13 (6 rnds): sc around (42 sts)
• Insert safety eyes between rnds 9-10, 4 stitches apart. Embroider a “v” shaped mouth using black embroidery thread on rnd 10, 1 stitch wide (tutorial here).
• Round 14: BLO, sc around (42 sts)
• Round 15: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 16: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 17: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 18: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 19: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 20: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end.

RUFFLE BOTTOM (in white)

The ruffle bottom will be worked around rnd 14 of the body, which should have horizontal bars all around from the BLO stitches. Hold the body so that the top (rnd 1) is pointing towards you and the bottom (rnds 20) is pointing away from you.

Attach yarn, then shell stitch all around: sk two sts, work a dc stitch into the third st. Work four more dcs into the same st for a total of five sts. Sk the next two sts and sl st into the third st. Repeat all the way around. In the last shell stitch, skip 3 sts before and after the dc cluster to accommodate the two extra sts in the round.

Finish off and weave in the ends.

See the photo tutorial below (shown in non-plush yarn for clarity) on
how to do the shell stitch.

Your Chubby Ghost amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Amigurumi Ghost – Plush No-Sew Crochet Ghost – Free Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest (no-sew!!) crochet narwhal ever

I don’t mind sewing when making amigurumi as much as some people do, but sometimes it’s nice to have one less thing to worry about.

I created this chubby narwhal pattern as a sized-down version of my Jumbo Narwhal (made with jumbo velvet yarn) with a few edits to clean it up.

Instead of using jumbo velvet yarn like Sweet Snuggles, it uses a super bulky yarn like Hobbii Baby Snuggle (or any other substitute chenille yarn) to get its smaller but still adorably squishy size.

There’s a clever no-sew technique to create the fins and tail, and I’ll show you how to attach the horn onto the top of the body using just a crochet hook in my video tutorial.

Speaking of which — there’s a complete video tutorial for this project! I’ve been working on building my YouTube channel lately and it makes me so happy when people find me from over there. Making videos takes a lot of time but I know it really helps beginners out.

Tips for working with plush yarn!

If you’ve never worked with plush chenille yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Generally, chenille yarn isn’t too big a step up from regular cotton or acrylic yarn, so it’s a good first “novelty” yarn for novices to try. For more tips on working with chenille yarn, read my blog post here!

• Chenille yarn sheds very easily when frogged. Because velvet/chenille yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces. The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• Working the magic ring can be really tricky when using plush yarn. The best way to avoid breaking the yarn is to make the magic ring extremely small at first — about the size of a dime — and before you’re done working the first round, continuously tug on the tail to decrease the size of the magic ring. This will ensure that the magic ring is as small as possible so that you don’t have to pull as hard later and risk breaking the yarn. If the yarn sheds significantly so that there’s no more fluff on the center string, I would recommend restarting completely since it’s likely that it will break later on.
• If your chenille crochet fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance.

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This cute and cuddly narwhal pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! It’s a no-sew pattern, so it’s great for working in chenille yarn. You can make this pattern with jumbo velvet yarn for a giant narwhal or you can downsize it with super bulky yarn like I used here. This pattern is accessible to beginners because it just uses simple stitches!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Hobbii Baby Snuggle (super bulky)
  • (<1 skein) Blue
  • (<1 skein) White

Notions

• Size F 3.75mm Clover Amour hook
• 6.0mm safety eyes
• scissors
• fiberfill stuffing
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• WS: wrong side
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. Try to avoid frogging velvet yarn since it sheds easily, and close the magic ring in the beginning as soon as possible, gently but firmly. Attempting to close it later on may result in breaking the yarn.
5. Use sewing pins to secure parts of the amigurumi before you sew them.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is blue, and CC1 is white.

Final Size

4″ x 4″

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: 8 sc in MR (8 sts)
• Round 2: inc x8 (16 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x8 (24 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x8 (32 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 6-7 (2 rnds): sc around (40 sts)
• Round 8: (7 sc, inc) x5 (45 sts)
• Round 9-12 (4 rnds): sc around (45 sts)
• Round 13: (3 sc, dec) x2.
• Create first flipper (tutorial here): chain 4 off the side of the narwhal, and beginning from the second chain from the hook, sc, 2 hdc, then work 1 hdc in the most recently worked st on rnd 13 to anchor the st (fig. 1 and 2). The flipper does not take up a whole stitch, and merely occupies the space between the last decrease and the beginning of the first single crochet in the next step. Continue working in the round: (3 sc, dec) x3.
• Create the tail: chain 4 off the side of the narwhal, and beginning from the second chain from the hook, 3 sc back. Work 1 more sc in the most recently worked st to anchor. Then, chain 4 off the side, and sc 3 back, work one more sc to anchor, then continue working on the round (See fig. 3 and 4).
• Continue working in the round: (3 sc, dec) x3.
• Create second flipper identically to the first one: chain 4 off the side of the narwhal, and beginning from the second chain from the hook, sc, 2 hdc, then work 1 hdc in the most recently worked st on rnd 13 to anchor the st (fig. 1 and 2).
• Continue working in the round: 3 sc, dec. (36 sts total in round 13)

• Insert 6.0mm safety eyes between rounds 12 and 13, 11 stitches apart.
• Round 14: (2 sc, dec) x4, switch to CC1, (2 sc, dec) x5 (27 sts)
• Round 15: (sc, dec) x9 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 16: dec x9 (9 sts)
• Round 17: dec x4, sc (5 sts)
• Finish off, leaving a tail. Bury the tail either by using a crochet hook (see tutorial here) or by using a tapestry needle.

HORN (in CC1)

• Round 1: 4 sc in MR (4 sts)
• Round 2: (sc, inc) x2 (6 sts)
• Round 3: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 4: sc around (8 sts)
• Gently stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail. Using a crochet hook, attach the horn to the to the whale between rounds 3-5 (counting from the top), directly between the eyes (tutorial here).

Your Chubby Narwhal amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post No-sew Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern – Easy Plush Amigurumi Narwhal appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The best Thanksgiving centerpiece ever!

If you’ve ever desired to have an overly plump, giant crochet turkey with magnificent and colorful tailfeathers, this is the place for you!

My jumbo turkey pattern is made with category 7 velvet yarn – I used a combination of Sweet Snuggles and Chenille Home (both by Michael’s). You can order them online (see links below in the Materials list).

This pattern is loosely based on my Chubby Chicken pattern but modified to work for jumbo velvet yarn. In case you didn’t know – most patterns designed for worsted weight yarn don’t translate well to jumbo velvet yarn, and there are a few things that I always adjust when adapting a pattern to jumbo yarn like Sweet Snuggles. You can read more about this in my article about resizing amigurumi!

I created this design around Thanksgiving time when I wanted to have a giant (and cuddly!) seasonal decor item. He turned out so cute and also gave me an excuse to use the 10.0 mm safety eyes that I’ve had forever but never used.

Read on for some tips on how to deal with jumbo velvet yarn!

Tips for working with velvet yarn!

If you’ve never worked with jumbo velvet yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Generally, velvet yarn isn’t too big a step up from regular cotton or acrylic yarn, so it’s a good first “novelty” yarn for novices to try.

• Velvet yarn, especially jumbo velvet yarn, sheds very easily when frogged. Because velvet/chenille yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces. The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• Patterns designed for jumbo velvet yarn cannot be easily sized down to worsted weight yarn. This means that if you use worsted weight yarn for this pattern, your result may be different and it might not turn out well. For more information on how to resize amigurumi and how worsted weight yarn affects this pattern, check out this blog post!
• If your jumbo turkey fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance. See my post here on how to stuff amigurumi and what to do if there are holes.

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This jumbo turkey is pillow sized and works as an adorable accent cushion for a child’s room or an eccentric couch pillow! Using velvet makes this amigurumi even more plush, but you can make it palm sized by using sport or worsted weight yarn.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Chenille Home (Jumbo)
  • (2 skeins) Mustard (brown)
  • (<1 skein) Burgundy (dark red)
• Sweet Snuggles (Jumbo)
  • (<1 skein) Yellow
  • (<1 skein) Coral (peach)

Notions

• 5.5mm/US size I Clover Amour hook
• 10.0mm safety eyes
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
2. Jumbo velvet yarn sheds very easily, so keep that in mind while working.
3. When creating the magic ring at the beginning, pull the circle as tight as possible before working into it. Otherwise, sometimes the circle gets stuck and it’s difficult to cinch tight.
4. If your amigurumi has gaps, size down your hook.
5. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
6. To make this amigurumi child safe, use black felt and hot glue for the eyes rather than safety eyes, which are not child-safe.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is Mustard, CC1 is Yellow, CC2 is Burgundy, and CC3 is Coral.

Final Size

Approx. 9″ (23 cm) wide, 8″ (21 cm) tall, 12″ (31 cm) long

HEAD/BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: 8 sc in MR (8 sts)
• Round 2: inc x8 (16 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x8 (24 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x8 (32 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x8 (48 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 8-13 (6 rnds): sc around (56 sts)
• Place 10mm safety eyes between rounds 9 and 10, with 11 stitches in between.
• Round 14: (6 sc, inc) x8 (64 sts)
• Round 15-16 (2 rnds): sc around (64 sts) Round 17: (6 sc, dec) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 18: (5 sc, dec) x8 (48 sts)
• Round 19: (4 sc, dec) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 20: (3 sc, dec) x8 (32 sts)
• Round 21: (2 sc, dec) x8 (24 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 22: (sc, dec) x8 (16 sts)
• Round 23: dec x8 (8 sts)
• Finish off and weave in end (fig. 1).

WINGS (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x2 (10 sts)
• Round 4: (4 sc, inc) x2 (12 sts)
• Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x2 (14 sts)
• Round 6: (6 sc, inc) x2 (16 sts)
• Do not stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (fig. 2). Seam opening shut and sew to the side of the body with the wide edge flush with round 9 (counting from the top). See photo below for final placement.

BEAK (in CC1)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (8 sts)
• Round 4: sc around, slst to the first stitch (8 sts)
• Stuff lightly (I use the tail end of the yarn). Invisible finish off (video tutorial here), and weave in end, leaving a tail for sewing (fig. 3). Sew to the body between rounds 10 and 11. It should be directly between the eyes (fig. 4).

FEET (in CC1. Make two.)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR, sist to first stitch (6 sts)
• Round 2: (slst in the next stitch, chain 4 off the side and beginning from the 2nd chain from the hook, work 3 single crochet stitches into the remaining 3 chains) x2, 2 slst. See fig. 5 for a crochet chart if needed.
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically and sew to the bottom of the body, starting from round 6 (counting from bottom)

WATTLE (in CC2)

Chain 7. Beginning from the second chain from the hook, work 3 single crochets, then slip stitch. Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing, then sew it to the right of the beak, at its base. See fig. 6 for finished placement.

TAIL FEATHERS (Make 2 in CC1, 2 in CC2, and 3 in CC3)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (sc, inc) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 3: (2 sc, inc) x3 (12 sts)
• Round 4: (3 sc, inc) x3 (15 sts)
• Round 5-6 (2 rnds): sc around (15 sts) Round 7: (3 sc, dec) x3 (12 sts)
• Round 8-11 (4 rnds): sc around (12 sts) Round 12: (2 sc, dec) x3 (9 sts)
• Round 13-15 (3 rnds): sc around (9 sts)
• Do not stuff. Invisible finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing (fig. 7). After finishing all 7 feathers, sew them to the body (beginning from 7th rnd from bottom).
• I arranged them in two layers; the first layer has the two CC2 feathers in the middle and the two CC1 feathers on the left and right side. On the second layer, I staggered the three CC3 feathers in the gaps created by the front layer.

Your Jumbo Turkey amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Jumbo Turkey – Plush Crochet Turkey – Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The cutest (no-sew) crochet star ever!

This super sweet crochet star is perfectly chubby but still has a really cute five-pointed star shape. I love this star pattern because it’s no sew — you just make two sides of the star and crochet them together at the edges!

It’s a really easy technique for “seaming” together two crochet pieces and avoids any kind of sewing. I love creating patterns that are easy and simple like this one!

If you’re a complete beginner, this pattern begins in a very similar way to most amigurumi patterns — using a magic ring and single crochet stitches.

However, the points of the five-point star are created with a series of other stitches, including the half double crochet stitch, double crochet stitch, and even treble crochet stitch!

If you’ve never tried any of these stitches, they’re very straightforward and very similar to the single crochet stitch, so it’s a good opportunity to stretch your skills and learn something new.

If video instructions are more your vibe, check out my complete YouTube tutorial here! It’s a great way to practice reading patterns and get used to following along with written instructions.

The inspiration behind this pattern!

I love small and cute objects that have a simple design and an sweet face so this was a perfect combination!

I’ve previously created a cute starfish pattern (below), but I was inspired recently to create a kawaii yellow star that’s a little more simplistic.

I love how you can completely change the look of an amigurumi project based on what details you add on top or how you embroider the face.

This is a great beginner project to work on if you want to practice your half double crochets and double crochets before working on the starfish pattern!

If you want a challenge, you can try making this pattern in worsted weight chenille yarn! If you’re interested in making it in jumbo yarn, I recommend you read my really great article on resizing amigurumi here.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This Chubby Star pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! I think everything looks cute when it’s a little chubby and this star is no exception. It’s the perfect gift for anyone who’s a star in your life and can be made in a whole range of colors!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• WeCrochet Brava Sport (sport)
  • (<1 skein) Canary (yellow)

Notions

• Size D 3.25mm Clover Amour hook
• black embroidery thread
• embroidery needle
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is Yellow.

Special Stitches

• Invisible finish off: click here for tutorial.

Final Size

Approx. 2″ x 2″

SIDE (in MC, make two. See Abbreviations for meaning of *…*. Watch the full video tutorial here!)

• Round 1: 5 sc in MR (5 sts)
• Round 2: inc x5 (10 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x5 (15 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x5 (20 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x5 (25 sts)
• Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x5 (30 sts)
• Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x5 (35 sts)
• Round 8: (sc, *hdc, dc*, *dc, tr*, *2 tr*, *tr, dc*, *dc, hdc*, sc) x5 (5 points, 60 sts) Invisible finish off, and weave in end. Make another identically, but do not finish off or add the face details (fig. 1).

• Face details: (Choose one side to be the “front” and embroider the face on that side) Using 3 strands of black embroidery thread, embroider two vertical lines to the side you’ve chosen to be the front.
• The line should extend three rows up from the center. You can make the lines as thick as you want, but I used two to three stitches to get the thickness I liked (fig. 2).

• Holding the two sides together with the right sides facing outwards (see fig. 3 for how to tell the RS and WS), single crochet them together (see photo tutorial below). Right before you finish crocheting the border, stuff the star with fiberfill. Slip stitch to the first stitch, invisible finish off, and weave in the end.

Your Chubby Star amigurumi is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Chubby Star Free Crochet Pattern (no-sew!) appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The no-sew, beginner friendly jumbo velvet pattern you’ve been waiting for!

Jumbo velvet amigurumi patterns have been insanely popular recently, but they can be fairly tricky for beginners who have never worked with velvet before.

This giant narwhal is both extremely huggable and almost entirely no-sew, which is a huge win!

If you’re just getting started with jumbo velvet yarn, this is the perfect pattern to practice some single crochets while still ending up with a super cute result.

The only piece that needs to be attached is the horn, which you could even leave off if you’re feeling intimidated.

This narwhal was designed with beginners in mind and I’ve got tons of step by step photos and charts for you to be able to effortlessly crochet the fins and tail.

Scroll down for my top tips on working with velvet!

Tips for working with velvet yarn!

If you’ve never worked with jumbo velvet yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Generally, velvet yarn isn’t too big a step up from regular cotton or acrylic yarn, so it’s a good first “novelty” yarn for novices to try.

• Velvet yarn, especially jumbo velvet yarn, sheds very easily when frogged. Because velvet/chenille yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces. The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• Patterns designed for jumbo velvet yarn cannot be easily sized down to worsted weight yarn. This means that if you use worsted weight yarn for this pattern, your result may be different and it might not turn out well. For more information on this, check out my blog post on when and how to resize amigurumi!
• If your jumbo narwhal fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance.

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This cute and cuddly narwhal pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! It’s almost completely no- sew except for the narwhal horn. You can make this pattern with jumbo velvet yarn for a giant narwhal or you can downsize it with worsted weight yarn. This pattern is accessible to beginners, and velvet is a lot easier to work with than most fluffy yarns.

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Sweet Snuggles Yarn by Loops and Threads (jumbo)
  • (1/2 skein) Coral
  • (scrap) White

Notions

• 5.0 mm Clover Amour hook
• 10.0mm safety eyes
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers
• scissors

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic ring
• rnd: round
• RS: right side
• sc: single crochet
• sk: skip
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• sl st: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• WS: wrong side
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.

2. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
3. To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
4. When working with velvet yarn, feel for the stitches with your fingers if you have trouble seeing them. Using your left hand to feel for each small gap in the stitch.
5. Try to avoid frogging velvet yarn since it sheds easily, and close the magic ring in the beginning as soon as possible, gently but firmly. Attempting to close it later on may result in breaking the yarn.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is peach, and CC1 is white.

Special Stitches

• How to embroider a nose: see this tutorial

Final Size

Approx. 10″ x 6″ (excluding horn)

BODY (in MC)

• Round 1: 8 sc in MR (8 sts)
• Round 2: inc x8 (16 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x8 (24 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x8 (32 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 6-7 (2 rnds): sc around (40 sts) Round 8: (7 sc, inc) x5 (45 sts)
• Round 9-12 (4 rnds): sc around (45 sts)
• Round 13: (3 sc, dec) x2.

Create first flipper: chain 4 off the side of the narwhal, and beginning from the second chain from the hook, sc, 2 hdc, then continue working on the round (see fig. 1 and 2). The flipper does not take up a whole stitch, and merely occupies the space between the last decrease and the beginning of the first single crochet in the next step.

Continue working in the round: (3 sc, dec) x3.

Create the tail: chain 4 off the side of the narwhal, and beginning from the second chain from the hook, 3 sc back. Then, chain 4 off the side, and sc 3 back, then continue working on the round (See fig. 3 and 4). Continue working in the round: (3 sc, dec) x3.

Create second flipper identically to the first one: chain 4 off the side of the narwhal, and beginning from the second chain from the hook, sc, 2 hdc, then continue working on the round.

Continue working in the round: 3 sc, dec. (36 sts total in round 13) Switch to CC1. Insert 10.0mm safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, 9 stitches apart. Center the eyes between the two flippers.

• Round 14: BLO, (2 sc, dec) x9 (27 sts)
• Round 15: (sc, dec) x9 (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 16: dec x9 (9 sts)
• Round 17: dec x4, sc (5 sts)

Finish off, leaving a tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread needle through each of the last five stitches and pull tight to close the hole. Then insert needle through center of the last round and push it out anywhere else in the narwhal, then cut the end to hide it.

HORN (in CC1)

• Round 1: 4 sc in MR (4 sts)
• Round 2: (sc, inc) x2 (6 sts)
• Round 3: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 4: sc around (8 sts)

Gently stuff. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew to the whale between rounds 3-5 (counting from the top), directly between the eyes.

Your Jumbo Narwhal is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy.

The post Jumbo Narwhal Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The biggest crochet penguin ever!

This is the largest amigurumi I’ve ever made and it’s safe to say that the end result is a little larger than life! Crocheting with jumbo velvet yarn can be tough and my hands were definitely tired after finishing this masterpiece but I’m really happy with how it came out!

The good part about this penguin is that if you’re not used to velvet, it’s a good opportunity to practice because the pieces are fairly straightforward and if you get off you can tell how it’s supposed to look.

Fair warning: if you like this pattern and want to make it with a smaller weight of yarn, use my other pattern designed for sport weight yarn.

This is because jumbo yarn is so large that I have to specifically accommodate it in my pattern, and if you use worsted size yarn your finished piece will end up very warped. I cover this in my article on how to resize amigurumi, so if you’re curious head over there to read more!

Tips for working with velvet yarn!

If you’ve never worked with jumbo velvet yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Generally, velvet yarn isn’t too big a step up from regular cotton or acrylic yarn, so it’s a good first “novelty” yarn for novices to try.

• Velvet yarn, especially jumbo velvet yarn, sheds very easily when frogged. Because velvet/chenille yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces. The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• Patterns designed for jumbo velvet yarn cannot be easily sized down to worsted weight yarn. This means that if you use worsted weight yarn for this pattern, your result may be different and it might not turn out well. For more information on this, check out my blog post on when and how to resize amigurumi!
• If your jumbo penguin fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance.

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This jumbo penguin is pillow sized and works as an adorable accent cushion for a child’s room or an eccentric couch pillow!

Yarn

Confused about materials? For all my personal recommendations of my most-used tools, yarns, and supplies, check out my favorites in this complete guide!

• Sweet Snuggles (jumbo)
  • (2 skeins) Pink
  • (<1 skein) White
  • (<1 skein) Yellow

Notions

• Size I 5.5mm Clover Amour hook
• 10.0mm safety eyes
• fiberfill stuffing
• tapestry needle
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

ch: chain

CC: contrast color

dec: decrease

inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)

MC: main color

MR: magic ring

rnd: round

sc: single crochet

x sc: work x number of single crochets

sl st: slip stitch

st(s): stitch(es)

(x sts): total number of stitches for the round

(…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

1. Crochet in continuous spiral rounds, unless specified otherwise. Use a stitch marker or piece of yarn to keep track of the last stitch in each round.
2. Jumbo velvet yarn sheds very easily, so keep that in mind while working.
3. When creating the magic ring at the beginning, pull the circle as tight as possible before working into it. Otherwise, sometimes the circle gets stuck and it’s difficult to cinch tight.
4. If your amigurumi has gaps, size down your hook.
5. When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness within the amigurumi.
6. To make this amigurumi child safe, use black felt and hot glue for the eyes rather than safety eyes, which are not child-safe.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is Pink, CC1 is Yellow, and CC2 is White.

Final Size

Approx. 10″ (26 cm) wide, 12″ (30 cm) tall

HEAD/BODY (in MC)

• Begin: Chain 9.
• Round 1: Beginning in the 2nd chain from hook, sc 7, 2 sc in the last chain, along the other side of the foundation chain sc7. For help on crocheting around a foundation chain, see here (16 sts)
• Round 2: inc x16 (32 sts)?
• Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
• Round 4: (4 sc, inc) x8 (48 sts)
• Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x8 (56 sts)
• Round 6: (6 sc, inc) x8 (64 sts)
• Round 7-10 (4 rnds): sc around (64 sts)
• Round 11: (7 sc, inc) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 12-19 (8 rnds): sc around (72 sts)
• Insert 10.0mm safety eyes between rounds 12-13, with 9 stitches in between.
• Round 20: (8 sc, inc) x8 (80 sts)
• Round 21-24 (4 rnds): sc around (80 sts)
• Round 25: (8 sc, dec) x8 (72 sts)
• Round 26: (6 sc, dec) x9 (63 sts)
• Round 27: (5 sc, dec) x9 (54 sts) ?
• Round 28: (4 sc, dec) x9 (45 sts)
• Round 29: (3 sc, dec) x9 (36 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 30: (2 sc, dec) x9 (27 sts)
• Round 31: (sc, dec) x9 (18 sts)
• Round 32: dec x9 (9 sts)
• Cut yarn, leaving a tail for sewing. Using a tapestry needle, thread the tail through the front loops of all 9 stitches in the last round, and then cinch tight. Bury the tail and cut the yarn (fig. 1).

WINGS (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)?
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)?
• Round 3: (3 sc, inc) x2 (10 sts)?
• Round 4: (4 sc, inc) x2 (12 sts)?
• Round 5: (5 sc, inc) x2 (14 sts)?
• Round 6: (6 sc, inc) x2 (16 sts)?
• Round 7: (7 sc, inc) x2 (18 sts)
• Round 8: (8 sc, inc) x2 (20 sts)
• Do not stuff. Flatten the wing so that your hook is on the right side, and then sc 10 through both sides of the wing. See fig. 2. Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Make another identically. Sew to the body between rounds 13 and 14 (counting from the top), 6 stitches to the left and right of the eyes. Check out my photo tutorial here for how to sew amigurumi parts together.

• BEAK (in CC1)
• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x2 (8 sts)
• Round 3: sc around (8 sts)
• Round 4: sc around, slst to the first stitch (8 sts)
• Stuff lightly (I use the tail end of the yarn). Invisible finish off (video tutorial here), and weave in end, leaving a tail for sewing (fig. 3). Sew to the body between rounds 12 and 13. It should be directly between the eyes (fig. 3).

BELLY (in CC2)

Round 1: 8 sc in MR (8 sts)
Round 2: inc x8 (16 sts)
Round 3: (sc, inc) x8 (24 sts)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x8 (32 sts)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x8 (40 sts)
Round 6: 2 sc, (4 sc, inc) x7, 2 sc, inc (48 sts)
Round 7: (5 sc, inc) x8, sl st (56 sts)
Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (fig. 4). Sew to the body
between rounds 15-25 (counting from the top).

Your Jumbo Penguin is all done! I hope you enjoyed crocheting it and found the pattern helpful. I would love to see your finished amigurumi, so share a picture on Instagram with me by using the #littleworldofwhimsy and tagging me @littleworldofwhimsy. Once again, if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out to me with a direct message on Instagram or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com. Happy crocheting!

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The post Jumbo Penguin Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The easiest crochet cushion ever!

This jumbo waffle pattern is the perfect solution to a couch that just needs a little more personality. My favorite part of it is the tiny butter pat that adds the cutest touch!

This pattern uses the aptly named waffle stitch (how convenient!) to create its gorgeous texture on the front and back, and is connected with a few rounds of single crochet and some seaming.

The waffle stitch is extremely thick, which makes it very suitable for blankets, but it can be more time consuming to crochet since each row is essentially worked twice.

However, since this waffle has very short rows and only a few of them, that makes it the perfect sampler for you to get some practice with the waffle stitch without committing to a larger project!

Tips for working with velvet yarn!

If you’ve never worked with jumbo velvet yarn before, here are a few tips to get you going on your way. Generally, velvet yarn isn’t too big a step up from regular cotton or acrylic yarn, so it’s a good first “novelty” yarn for novices to try.

• Velvet yarn, especially jumbo velvet yarn, sheds very easily when frogged. Because velvet/chenille yarn generally is made up of a lot of tiny bristles stuck onto a central string, if you frog it, the friction can easily lead to a lot of shedding and stray yarn pieces. The best solution to this is to try to avoid frogging, and also working in a place that can be easily cleaned.
• Patterns designed for jumbo velvet yarn cannot be easily sized down to worsted weight yarn. This means that if you use worsted weight yarn for this pattern, your result may be different and it might not turn out well. For more information on this, check out my blog post on when and how to resize amigurumi!
• If your jumbo waffle fabric is too loose and you can see the stuffing poking through, size down your crochet hook so that it’s tighter. If it’s too tight and the crochet stitches are warping or too stiff, size up your crochet hook to get that perfect balance.

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!

Description

This jumbo waffle is pillow sized and works as an adorable accent cushion for a child’s room. You can add all sorts of toppings in addition to the butter pat that I’ve added to this pattern. Using velvet makes this amigurumi even more plush, but you can make it palm sized by using sport or worsted weight yarn.

Yarn

• Chenille Home (jumbo weight)
  • (1 skein) of Mustard
• Wool-Ease Thick and Quick (super bulky)
  • (<1 skein) Fisherman
• DIYarn (worsted)
  • (<1 skein) Brown

Notions

• Size J 6.0mm Clover Amour Hook
• 10.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers

Abbreviations

• BLO: back loop only
• ch: chain
• CC: contrast color
• dec: decrease
• inc: increase (work two single crochets in one stitch)
• MR: magic ring
• sc: single crochet
• x sc: work x number of single crochets
• st(s): stitch(es)
• (x sts): total number of stitches for the round
• (…) x: work all steps within parentheses x number of times

Special Stitches

Waffle stitch: Click here for tutorial.

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• Stuff the head and the body firmly at the openings so that the neck is stable upon completion.

Color Coding

For this pattern, the MC is Mustard, CC1 is Fisherman, and CC2 is Brown.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to crochet around a foundation chain
• Single crochet
• How to use safety eyes
• Invisible decrease
• How to stuff amigurumi tutorial
• How to sew amigurumi parts together tutorial
• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

1.5′ x 1.5′

WAFFLE (in MC. Work in turned rows. Waffle stitch tutorial can be found in special stitches.)

• Begin: Chain 20 (20 sts)
• Row 1: Beginning from the 3rd chain from the hook (counts as a dc), dc across. Chain 2 and turn. (18 sts)
• Row 2: Dc in the first stitch. (Fpdc around the post of the next stitch. Dc in each of the next 2 stitches) x5. There should be 2 sts remaining. Fpdc, dc in last two stitches. Chain 2 and turn. (18 sts)
• Row 3: Dc in first two stitches. (Fpdc around the next two stitches, dc in the next stitch) x5. There should be 1 st remaining. Dc in the last st. Chain 2 and turn. (18 sts)
• Step 4: repeat rows 2-3 three more times (18 sts)
• Step 5: repeat row 2 (18 sts)
• Invisible finish off and weave in end. Make another identically, but do not finish off (fig.1).

Face details: On one of the waffle pieces, insert two safety eyes on the two middle fpdcs on the second row from the bottom. Using CC2, embroider a small “v” shape directly below and between the eyes (fig. 3).

Continuing from the second waffle piece, chain one and turn the work so that you’re crocheting down the left side of the square. Work scs all around the waffle to form a single crochet border.

Watch this video tutorial for visual guidance.

You should work 3 single crochet stitches for the height of every double crochet row. Work 3 single crochet stitches at each corner to form the corner. down the side, with 3 scs for each dc, with a total of around 80 sts total. Slst to the first stitch (fig. 1).

Join the two sides together either by cutting the working end of the yarn and whip stitching the two together, or crochet them together by working slip stitches between the two sides. Whichever way you prefer, stuff as you go.

BUTTER PAT (in CC1. See Special Stitches for FSC. Worked in turned rows.)

• Row 1: FSC 5, chain and turn (5 sts)
• Row 2-6: (5 rows) sc across, chain and turn (5 sts)
• Invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing. Insert 10.0mm safety eyes on the 3rd row with one stitch between them. Using CC2, embroider a small “v” directly between and under the eyes (fig. 2). Using the tail, sew the butter pat to the top right corner of the waffle (fig. 3).

I hope you enjoyed making my Jumbo Waffle pattern! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

Related projects:

• Secret the Fluffy Cat Free Pattern
• Bear Basket Free Crochet Pattern For Beginners
• Louis the Royal Lion Free Crochet Pattern
• Waffle the Chubby Bear Free Crochet Pattern
• Ice Cream Bear Free Crochet Pattern

The post Jumbo Waffle Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

A Beginner Friendly, No-Sew Pattern!

Velvet yarn has been really popular in the amigurumi community recently and this super cute strawberry pattern is my one of my first designs with worsted weight velvet!

Working with velvet might be a little intimidating for beginners, but using worsted weight velvet is probably the best first step if you’re used to cotton and acrylic. This is because velvet yarn isn’t fluffy enough that the stitches are completely obscured, and worsted weight velvet is still thin enough that it’s easier to handle than blanket yarns or larger chenille yarns.

So if you’ve been thinking of velvet, this is a great chance to give it a go!

To top it off, this is a completely no sew pattern. The cute strawberry leaves on top are worked back loop only onto the last round of the strawberry, so you don’t have to worry about sewing any parts together. Truly the perfect quick and easy beginner friendly project!

My Inspiration and Design Process

One of my favorite kinds of amigurumi to make are foods! Crochet play foods are so fun to create, because of how realistic they can look. Jumbo sized foods are especially fun because of how cute they can look in an oversized form.

Because of my love for fluffy and squishable foods, I decided that my first project with this yarn would be a jumbo strawberry! I just love how it turned out and I think would make the perfect baby shower gift (if you embroidered on the eyes) or for a child just learning basic words around the kitchen.

If you’re interested in other amigurumi foods, check out the other patterns that I’ve designed below!

More Chunky Velvet Patterns

I’ve been on a jumbo amigurumi designing kick recently and have made a ton of new patterns that use jumbo velvet yarn!

I also rounded up all my favorite free jumbo amigurumi on the internet at this post here!

More blog posts like this:

• Ultimate List of Free Chunky Blanket Yarn Amigurumi Patterns
• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• My Foolproof Guide to Resizing Amigurumi (no math required!)
• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This cute and cuddly Strawberry pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! The leaf detail is the perfect extra touch, and you can customize the colors of the strawberry and leaves to your favorite color. This pattern is accessible to beginners, and you can adapt it to any size you want by changing the weight of the yarn!

Yarn

• Bernat Baby Velvet Yarn (worsted weight)
  • (<1 skein) Ever After Pink
    • pink
  • (<1 skein) Bleached Aqua
    • green
  • (<1 skein) Snowy White
    • white

Notions

• Size G (4.0 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread
• embroidery needle

Abbreviations (US)

• CC: contrast color
• ch: chain
• dc: double crochet
• dec: decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
• FSC: foundation single crochet (tutorial here)
• hdc: half double crochet
• inc: increase (two single crochets in one stitch)
• MC: main color
• MR: magic circle
• rnd: round
• sc: single crochet
• slst: slip stitch
• st(s): stitch(es)
• x sc: single crochet x number of times
• (x sts): x total stitches at the end of the round or row
• (…) x: work instructions in parentheses x number of times

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is pink, CC1 is green, and CC2 is white.

Amigurumi Basics Tutorials for Beginners

• How to thread a needle quickly
• How to make a magic circle
• How to work single crochets in a magic circle
• How to tell the right side and wrong side of amigurumi
• X stitch vs. V stitch
  • I use the X stitch for all my amigurumi, which only results in a slight visual variation. You can use either stitch without any repercussions and you can follow the pattern exactly no matter which you choose.
• How to stuff amigurumi
• How to finish off amigurumi in the round
• Two ways to embroider amigurumi noses
• How to finish off in the round
• How to attach yarn and pick up stitches in the round
• How to make a slip knot

Final Size

Approx. 5″ x 4″ with worsted weight velvet.
To adjust the size of this amigurumi to be bigger or smaller, increase or decrease the weight of the yarn.

STRAWBERRY (in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Round 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x5, 2 sc (36 sts) Round 7: sc around (36 sts)
• Round 8: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42 sts)
• Round 9: sc around (42 sts)
• Round 10: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x5, 3 sc (48 sts)
• Round 11: sc around (48 sts)
• Round 12: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54 sts)
• Round 13: 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x5, 4 sc (60 sts)
• Round 14: (9 sc, inc) x6 (66 sts)
• Round 15: (10 sc, inc) x6 (72 sts)
• Round 16-22: (7 rnds) sc around (72 sts)
• Insert 6mm safety eyes between rounds 18 and 19 (counting from the bottom), 4 stitches apart.
• Round 23: (10 sc, dec) x6 (66 sts)
• Round 24: (9 sc, dec) x6 (60 sts)
• Round 25: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x5, 4 sc (54 sts)
• Round 26: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48 sts)
• Round 27: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)x5, 3 sc (42 sts)
• Round 28: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36 sts)
• Round 29: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x5, 2 sc (30 sts)
• Round 30: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 31: sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x5, sc (18 sts)
• Stuff.
• Round 32: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts)
• Round 33: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Switch to light green. See Fig. 1.
• Round 34: (chain 9, and beginning in the second chain from the hook, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc, slst to the next stitch) x6. See Fig. 2 and 3. (6 leaves)
• Finish off, leaving a tail for sewing.

FINISHING

After finishing the leaves (fig. 4), thread your tapestry needle and weave the needle in and out of the last round at the base of the leaves (fig. 5). After going all around, pull the yarn tight to cinch it shut (fig. 6). Insert your needle through the center of the ring of leaves at the top and pull it out anywhere else in the strawberry to secure. Cut the yarn.

Using black embroidery thread and an embroidery needle, sew a “V” shape directly between the eyes, on round 18 (counting from the bottom)

I hope you enjoyed making this Jumbo Strawberry! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

More like this:

• 20 Cutest FREE Crochet Baby Toy Patterns (for beginners!)
• 14 Quick and Easy Crochet Keychains for Bags (Stashbuster!)
• 12 Cutest Free Crochet Gnome Patterns (beginner friendly!)
• 9 Cutest Totoro Crochet Patterns (from Studio Ghibli!)
• 9 Fun Crochet Jellyfish Patterns!

More blog posts for amigurumi beginners:

• Easiest Crochet Whale for Absolute Beginners!

• My Foolproof Guide to Crocheting Amigurumi for Beginners
• What’s the best stuffing for amigurumi? (+ how to stuff!)
• How to Sew Amigurumi Parts Together (easy photo tutorial!)

The post Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.

Read on to learn more about my design process and inspiration, or scroll to the end to get the free pattern. If you’re in a hurry and need to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here.

The fluffiest bee ever!

Amigurumi bees have been all the rage recently and I thought it would be fun to make a jumbo velvet bee. I wanted to put a fun twist on the classic yellow bee so I decided to make mine strawberry themed! The overall effect reminds me of a strawberry shortcake and just adds to the cuteness.

You can make this bee in any weight yarn, but I used worsted weight velvet. If you use non velvet yarn or sport weight, the result will be smaller and less fluffy.

This pattern is super versatile and can be customized to any color you imagine! I can even picture a pastel rainbow of bees, so let your creativity run free with this one.

If you want to check out a fun video I made of my process, check out this post on Instagram.

Tips for working with velvet yarn

If you’re a first timer to velvet yarn, don’t worry! This pattern is extremely beginner friendly since it’s just a cylinder and it’s a great way to practice using fluffier yarn.

Velvet is slippery and the stitches tend to come out a little looser, so it’s extremely important to use a tight tension for a smooth and even result. If you find that your work isn’t even, then try sizing down a hook.

Although velvet yarn isn’t quite fluffy enough that it becomes difficult to see the stitches, but it can still be helpful to feel for the stitches with your fingers. Whenever you feel a small gap or hole in the work, that means that there’s a stitch there. Hopefully these tips help you get started making your first velvet project!

The Pattern

• If you want to take this pattern offline, grab the beautifully formatted, ad-free, PDF pattern from Etsy here!
• Pin this pattern to your Pinterest boards here:

Description

This cute and cuddly Strawbee pattern is a breeze to work up and is super cute! She is inspired from a strawberry color palette and is a cute twist on a traditional bee. The wing detail is the perfect extra touch, and you can customize the colors of the bee and wings to your favorite color. This pattern is accessible to beginners, and you can adapt it to any size you want by changing the weight of the yarn!

Yarn

• Bernat Baby Velvet Yarn (worsted)
  • (<1 skein) of Ever After Pink
  • (<1 skein) Snowy White

Notions

• Size G (4.0 mm) Clover Amour crochet hook
• 6.0 mm safety eyes
• tapestry needle
• polyester fiberfill
• stitch markers
• black embroidery thread

Abbreviations (US)

• MR: Magic ring
• Sc: Single crochet
• Ch: Chain
• Sl st: Slip stitch
• Yo: Yarn over
• Hdc: Half double crochet
• Dc: Double crochet
• Inc: Increase
• Dec: Decrease
• Sts: Stitches
• FO: Fasten off
• (…) x: repeat stitches within parentheses x times

Technical Notes

• Crochet in continuous rounds unless otherwise specified
• When filling with polyester stuffing, pull apart each large chunk into many smaller chunks. This ensures an even distribution of firmness.
• To avoid large holes in the crochet fabric, increase tension until the holes cannot be seen, or choose a crochet hook a size down.
• For this pattern, the MC is pink, and CC is white.

Final Size

3″ x 1.5″

BODY (Begin in MC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: inc x6 (12 sts)
• Round 3: (sc, inc) x6 (18 sts)
• Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30 sts)
• Switch to CC, do not cut MC. Insert 6mm safety eyes between rounds 2 and 3 (counting from the bottom), with 2 stitches between them (Fig. 4.).
• Round 6-9: (3 rnds) sc around (30 sts) Switch to MC, do not cut CC.
• Round 10-12: (3 rnds) sc around (30 sts) Switch to CC, do not cut Mc.
• Round 13-15: (3 rnds) sc around (30 sts) Switch to MC. Cut CC.
• Round 16-17: (2 rnds) sc around (30 sts) Round 18: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24 sts)
• Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18 sts) Stuff.
• Round 18: (sc, dec) x6 (12 sts) Round 19: dec x6 (6 sts)
• Finish off in the round, and weave in end (Fig. 1). Using black embroidery thread, embroider a “V” shaped mouth to the face of the bee.

WING (in CC)

• Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
• Round 2: (chain 4 off the side of the circle, then working back along the chain and beginning from the second chain from the hook, sc, 2 hdc, then slst) x2. Do not work into remaining stitches, and invisible finish off, leaving a tail for sewing (Fig. 2).
• Using the tail, sew the back of the wind to the left and right sides of the body, in the middle of the central MC stripe (Fig. 3). (2 wingtips)

I hope you enjoyed making Strawbee! If you run into any problems feel free to ask me a question in the comments section below or through email at littleworldofwhimsy@gmail.com.

More blog posts like this

• Jumbo Strawberry Free Velvet Crochet Pattern
• 27 Soft and Fluffy Crochet Patterns for Velvet Yarn (free!)
• 29 Luxurious Free Crochet Patterns for Bernat Velvet Yarn
• 11 Adorable Velvet Teddy Bear Free Crochet Patterns

The post Strawberry Bee Free Velvet Crochet Pattern appeared first on Little World of Whimsy.